Stok Kangri trip 2014 with Bhole group.
In 2014, on the way to Stok Kangri trek we had taken Manali to Leh highway to reach Ladakh. That was my first time on this highway, which passes though beautiful and rugged landscape. I was spellbound. Then it took us two days by vehicle. That was not enough for me. I wanted to enjoy this highway in slow motion and decided one day I will ride bicycle and experience this landscape in my own pace. After reading and talking a lot with Ashish Agashe planning when and how to do it, came to know YHAI will be organizing Manali to Leh cycling expedition was thrilled and registered immediately with doubts in my mind if I really can do such a challenging expedition. Started preparing with regular cycling practice near home at Yeoor and was fortunate to be part of few outstation trips to Thamini Ghat arranged by Mahadik Kaka and with Vaishali, Prashant and Hiten some of whom had already done this route by cycle, got some useful tips from Hiten & one can never stop learning from Vaishali. It was peak summer then, mid day heat used to make me wonder if I really can manage Ladakh where day time temperatures can feel like 40 degree. Then next was Mahabaleshwar arranged by Vaishali and with Pallavi and Mugdha, got some tips from Mugdha. Here I got bit more confident, even though heat was there as it was April, still we all managed very well. Again in Monsoon I was blessed to be part of Chamba group preparation trip to Mahabaleshwar. Since weather was good and it rained we all enjoyed and in few days my dream trip was about to start.
Day 1-3 (12th July – 14th July)
All packed, took flight to New Delhi along with Harshad. At Delhi we were to go to Himachal Bhawan to take HPTDC overnight bus to Manali. We met Sunit there. Morning around 8AM we reached 15 Mile campsite. Bus dropped us just opposite our campsite which is few kilometres before Manali, on Kullu-Manali highway. First day we did nothing, campsite is beside Beas river so we relaxed and settled. We had 3 days of acclimatization which means next two days we tried out cycle given by YHAI. Most of us got Trek 3700, which makes me happy. Test ride was towards Nagar Castle, after some fine tuning of my humsafer for next 10-11 days. Route itself was well planned with mostly uphill, it all went fine and we all were raring to start this journey.
Day 4 (15th July)
Trip of my life...Dream trip started with overcast sky, no sooner did we reach Manali it started drizzling and this light rain did not stop for next 2-3 days. We reached our first campsite Marhi which was all uphill. Most of the time I cycled along with Mugdha as we were in similar pace. She would say next turn it will be flat, we take the turn, it looks flat but were unable to change to higher gear, we coined this phenomena as ‘Himalayan Flat’. It took us 12 hour of cycling that day with umpteen breaks. Almost close to campsite we had traffic which was stuck so we had to walk in-between vehicles. Along with rain we had fog as well at some places. It was beautiful to ride. Campsite itself was on a grassland, but due to rain it looking more like a swimming pool, everything was damp from canvas tents to sleeping bags, I realized just my bags have not arrived. My fellow cyclists offered me cloths for the time being as our camp leaders had not arrived and they normally are the last to arrive with the last cyclist and by then it was 9:30PM and since it was late in the night we decided to search first thing in the morning. Our leader had told me it could be in our Ambulance van and to my relief it was and I was all set for next 9 days of riding coz without my warm cloths I could have not continued this trip.
Day 5 (16th July)
Rothang Top Signboard with Poonam
Today we had to reach Sissu, on the way we had to cross the first psychological hurdle, the infamous Rothang La. Our first ‘La’ meaning Pass. These passes were part of ancient trading route. Rothang literally means ‘pile of corpses’, due to people dying in bad weather trying to cross this pass. Again it was raining and we had fog till we reached Rothang, in fact we did not realize we reached highest point of day due to poor visibility. It was a gradual climb, suddenly I and Poonam realized the road got flat and right then we saw sign board saying Rothang Top. I knew the actual Rothang la with prayer flags is bit ahead at the same time felt we might not be able to see it due to fog. So we decided to take pictures along with this sign board as we were already shivering with cold. Our fingers had become numb even though we had our gloves given by YHAI. In my mind I think I should have listened to Hiten who had advised me to carry a good full finger glove. We did not have patience, quickly few photos and we started cycling to keep ourselves warm, ahead we saw vehicles trying to park here and there, some trying to overtake, there was utter chaos, tourist, army vehicles, trucks, bikers and cyclists who won? We just walked in-between those vehicles, after the turn all was in order, except the road! Lo behold the dreaded Rothang downhill to Hell! It was all loose rocks slush and mud upon that our hands were numb, it was cold and it was raining, far away we could see Sun rays and dry roads, we badly wanted to reach there. We wanted Sun’s warmth, but for next one hour or so we would not get that. All we got was loose rocks, slushy roads with heavy vehicles all around us and so were the bikers. Mid way met few fellow cyclists who had lost gear wheel, some both brakes lost, I myself had lost rear brakes, but managed to reach Koksar, was hungry ordered for Magie at a Dhaba as our lunch box was cold. With hot Magie and hot tea I could feel my fingers again! With Rothang crossed I now knew I can do rest of this trip with no fear. Confidence was up. Road till Sissu was fantastic and enjoyed the ride singing.
Day 6 (17th July)
At Jispa - Our hotel during our 2014 trip
Today we will be camping at Jispa. I remembered our 2014 trip with our Bhole Group and smiled. It was a pleasant ride with some uphill and fantastic downhill. On the way to our campsite saw this hotel we had stayed back in 2014 and took pictures of that. Today we were put up in guest house with attached bath. For a change we were happy to be sleeping on beds and no damp tents and sleeping bags.
Day 7 (18th July)
Deepak Tal
Zing zing Bar Sign Board
Started for ZingZing Bar. Again rolling ride, with up’s and down’s. Few water crossings, stopped at Deepak Tal, there was a dhaba had quick bite. Met a Army personnel who was walking from Dhaba to his camp, He was asking me why am I cycling here, told him this is a beautiful place, but he insisted why all this trouble, I could just ride by car, told him I had done so once before by car but wanted to do so by cycle. He could not understand. All this while he was walking and I was riding cycle and both our pace was same! After many winding uphill turns. Saw sign board ZingZing Bar, we were told our camp is bit ahead. Okay so started cycling uphill and winding roads, with every turn we would either get head wind or tail wind, an hour past still could not find our campsite. Still more uphill I started to wonder will I ever reach today, soon enough after about 2 hours from where I saw the sign board our camp was at upper ZingZing Bar. This was the coldest campsite so far, few had AMS symptoms and had difficulty reaching campsite. I decided to take it easy at the camp and was outside trying to acclimatize even though as of now I had no uncomfortable feeling.
Day 8 (19th July)
Vishal Tal
Today’s destination was Sarchu. On the way we passed Suraj Tal aka Vishal Tal. Crossed Baralacha La and officially crossed states Himachal Pradesh state ends here. Ladakh region of Jammu & Kashmir state starts here. Manali – Leh Highway is constructed and maintained by Boarder Road Organization (BRO) Manali to Sarchu is called Project DEEPAK and from Sarchu to Leh is called Project HIMANK. Just as we entered Sarchu, landscape dramatically changed with canyon and unique wind-carved rock formations all over.
Day 9 (20th July)
Gata Loops Start & End
Singh Uncle Taking photo of Nakeela
Started for Wiskey Nalla, To start with we had few kilometres of Sarchu Plains and enjoyed the ride, then we came across GATA Loops starts sign board and we took some pictures and started our journey, they are 21 Hairpin bends. Initially I was counting but heat was killing every cell in my brain slowly lost the count. Slowly with many breaks and looking around admiring this beauty, I came to a mid way point where others were already resting and contemplating having lunch, it might not even be 12 noon. So I joined in had half of my lunch box and saved the rest for later. Saw few young cyclists from our group taking short cuts to reach up, there are many such short cuts. But I was always told by Sanjiv our trekking friend ‘never take short cuts’ and saw these guys doing. Later also saw the result of them taking short cuts, they were more exhausted and needed more time to recover. Saw a car coming down from a steep short cut, he rolled in fine, a biker group also came down from a different short cut, one of them lost balance, lost control and fell, others from his group went to help him. Nothing happened to the rider or the bike. Soon I reached the top of GATA Loops and took pictures and enjoyed the view from top. Wait! This was not the top of the day. There was more, uphill never seem to end. We had to continue uphill ride to Nakee La. I had thought after Gata Loops I might get a bit of downhill to enjoy and recover. I was mentally unprepared for the uphill to come. It was gradual, entire highway is gradual still I was continuously in 1X1 aka ‘granny gear’! Mid afternoon heat, my mind was off, then came the news that our support vehicles has run out of drinking water. Another blow to the already difficult day with Sun blazing in full force. Even though I had extra water in my bag behind tied to the carrier with bungee cord, at this hour I had no energy or interest to unhook bungee cord and get the water can and redo the entire process every time. My half litre can had ORS which was handy in bottle cage, but that day I seem to have made it concentrated, after a while I disliked to even take a sip from it. I was cycling with others who seem to also struggling with water. It was so hot, nothing tasted better than water, which unfortunately was in short supply. Then we started stopping tourist vehicles, army vehicles and bikers asking for water, of course all gave us and wished us well. Still Nakee La never came, in spite of reassurance from everyone that its is at the next bend, it never came. At one point I knew few cyclist were just ahead of me but I could not see, I knew there were few behind me but still could not see them, this happened at every turn. I would wait for long time to see if anyone be visible, but no. I was cycling alone at this point. But they were there, just that the twist and turns were such it made me feel. I stopped at one point, thinking today Nakee La will not come and I am going nowhere. Opened my lunch box had remaining food and it tasted so good. Mood was up and Singh Uncle came along and said he can’t go any further as he is not feeling good. Told him to have something and take rest. He kept on saying he is not feeling good. Offered him ORS which he refused, soon other cyclists came, told them to wait with him till Ambulance reached for Singh uncle. He got on to Ambulance and we moved on. Again after several bends still Nakee la was out of sight. A biker stopped for me, I guess I was not looking good. He did not know English and looked like a foreigner, with hand gesture he offered me water and I took it, wished me well and moved on. Soon our bike support came around, by now they had refilled water and were distributing to all. By this time I had almost given up, He said two more long bends and you will be there. I told him, this is what I have been hearing from past many hours. He said trust me you are almost there. I stayed strong, got back on saddle and started riding and sure enough this time after two bends Nakee La really came! I could not enjoy that moment, normally all passes have chill wind but this place was too much to handle, quickly took picture, got windcheater on and started downhill decent. Today was the most difficult day. Heat and relentless uphill ride was over for the day. By now due to extreme weather from rain, dust, heat and chill wind my body had taken a beating. After reaching the camp at Whiskey Nalla, I had bit of fever, so said fellow cyclist and Doctor Manisha. Took tablet and rested for a while. She said fever could be due to exhaustion. After half hour I was feeling fine and decided to be outside of tent and did some gargling as my throat was aching.
Day 10 (21st July)
Much needed Himalayan Spa at Pang – That bucket had steaming hot water with Eucalyptus.
Today was an easy ride. Had to pass Lachung La then downhill to Pang. Breathtaking landscape with rock formation, some looked like rhino’s horns and others like temple structures, one was like a gateway. It was heavenly. Took many breaks and just sat and soaked in the beauty. Pure Bliss! This day I was struggling with cold, but happy I was able to cycle. Day time used to be hot and dry. Several of us were down with cold and congestion, looking at us YHAI leaders arranged mass steam inhalation in our tents. I really appreciate this gesture. Next day I was feeling better. Slept well dreaming about next day. ☺
Day 11 (22nd July)
Morey Plains – Feels like flying.
Tso Kar
Next day arrived. I was feeling better after steam inhalation and my mood was upbeat as today I will be cycling on Morey Plains. To reach there we had to take 6Kms of uphill. All the while I was emotional, I could not believe that my dream has come true. I am actually, really... cycling on Morey plains, it’s around 30-35 Kms of high altitude plains with very little vegetation and mountains on both sides. BRO has kept this road in very good condition but yes in-between they do get bad. But overall its a beautiful place to pedal. I reached the top of that days climb and saw wide expense of open land. Started cycling, soon I went hands free, next legs free, there were no vehicular movement, just we cyclists. Rolled on the road, slept and gazed at the sky. Sat with friends and talked for a long time. We were in top gear. Soon I remembered from one of the blog read that head wind is an issue at such places. After enjoying everything, decided to head to the campsite before mid-day head wind which would spoil the fun. I was about to reach campsite when head wind started, had to lower my gear just managed to reach campsite Debring at 12noon. Here the wind blowing was from single direction our campsite was on a sand ground so for a long time we were in a sand world, sand everywhere, inside our tents, cloths, bags and we ate food with sand wind blowing. There was a dhaba, had hot lunch. Later our ambulance van came and they asked if anyone interested to visit Tso Kar, it’s a salt lake(Tso meaning Lake) nearby around 45mins drive. Those interested should quickly start as day light was fading. I along with others quickly got ready and we were all excited. Reached the lake in 45mins of off road ride sitting inside our ambulance van, a tempo traveller was converted into an ambulance with last two seats removed to make space for a mattress. Few of us sat on the mattress and others adjusted on the remaining seats. Our ambulance was loaded with enthusiastic cyclists for a change. On the way we saw a lone Wild Ass. Lake itself was vast and we could see salt sediments surrounding the lake. Took pictures, enjoyed the view for some time and it was time for us to head back to camp. Next day was a big day!
Day 12 (23rd July)
View on the way to Tangang La
Hurray!
Today we will be on worlds 2nd highest motorable road - Tangang La, We started it was a gradual accent, I was in good fitness, cold & congestion had reduced to a large extent. Here I remembered Swapnil’s advice to keep your own pace and never try to match anyone. I had mostly done that and it worked for the entire trip. After many a twist and turns, few turns we had head wind and few we had tail wind. At one such turn when I was almost near the top, the head wind got so bad that even walking with the cycle was difficult but I did walk along with my cycle till the next turn where tail wind gave me company. When we were just near the top, it got cold and got to experience bit of snow fall, it was more like melted snow (neither rain nor snow). Reached the top and few of them had already reached, wished all of them and we went inside dhaba there. Had some hot Magie and tea. Then we were waiting for Mohit to arrive as it was his birthday. We celebrated his birthday, dhaba had small cake. I must have spent almost an hour at Tangang La. It was getting cold so decided to go downhill, as one is not supposed to stay long time at such altitude. Mugdha told me to be careful on the downhill as there are sharp turns. I took her advice and carefully enjoyed the downhill ride, one of the best downhill. Beautiful done road by BRO and beautiful landscape, enjoyed every moment of it. Reached campsite-Rumtse, which was the best of all the campsite. This campsite had water stream running inside, the sound of running water was very pleasing, it also had cultivation land behind, which was all green. After all had reached the camp we went to a nearby shop and made phone calls to our families. All these days we were out of network. Had some hot food on the way back with the birthday boy!
Day 13 (24th July)
Taking in the beauty
Puncture Stop
Manali – Leh cycling was coming to an end! Today we will be riding mostly downhill to Leh around 80Kms. We were told at Upshi there will be diversion, right goes to Leh and we were told to regroup there. Most of us reached Upshi and were waiting for the rest of the group to arrive, we had bit of mid-day snacks there. While cycling we are hungry at all times. So any opportunity to eat should not be missed. So for a long time rest of the group was not to be seen. We saw the sign board and asked people, left goes to Leh. So we decided to take left. I along with Mugdha and Poonam started. Suddenly we realized we are the only once from our group cycling. These roads are so long and mostly rolling with bit of uphill and downhill. We could not make out who is ahead of us or who is behind. We kept on cycling and cycling. It was a Sunday so shops were closed. We came to Karu realizing we are on right track. Stopped at army restaurant, it was almost 12noon had readymade pizza from the counter and after many days on the road we got good clean and luxurious bathroom with mirror. We saw ourselves first time after 10-12 days! Started again, slowly saw cultivation, electricity poles, irrigation canals and lots of people gathered around. There was some Islamic festival near a mosque. City like atmosphere started with few shops. Still we had not reached Leh. On the way somewhere in the middle we had stopped for a chikki brake when I was about to start again, realized my cycle front tyre was punctured. The same day I had given my puncture kit to someone else. So I was without puncture kit. Mugdha, Poonam and Mohit were with me. Our mechanic was not reachable. So Mugdha said there is a petrol pump nearby we could get some help there. She stopped a vehicle which happened to be a defence vehicle. We loaded the vehicle behind and I went along with the driver. Driver was from Tamil Nadu working for Indian Army, he was on his way to Leh Airport to pick up some official. He offered to drop me till Leh, which was just 7Kms. I refused his offer, he dropped me at petrol pump. On the way to petrol pump we stopped at a mechanic shop but shutters were half closed and no one came out when I called out. So I waited for others to reach petrol pump. They reached and so did others who had my puncture kit. But unfortunately they had forgotten to pick it up or they don’t remember what happened to my kit. At the same time we saw one of the YHAI staff cycling. We requested him to wait for the mechanic to arrive and in the mean time I took his cycle and reached Leh along with Mugdha and Poonam. It was mid afternoon and just before Leh we had all uphill, Poonam and Mugdha were down due to heat. Since they had given me company while my cycle was down, I gave them what little I could, motivated them, encouraged them to cycle on and that’s how we reached Leh! Tired but fully elated.
YHAI had extended the expedition to Kardung La which is the highest motorable road for the next day. It was optional. So those who wanted to go Kardung La were supposed to rest at the camp site. So I decided to rest in preparation for Kardung La.
Day 14 (25th July)
Stok Kangri in the backdrop on the way to Kardungla
Last point of my Trip - South Pullu on the way to Kardungla.
Could not sleep well last night, might have slept for 2-3 hours. At 4AM we were to start for Kardung La. We got all support from YHAI and we were ready to start around 17 of us. Our leader Anurag took us to the start point till then we were all together. Later on it is just one road leading to the K TOP. So we cycled in our own pace. I enjoyed the ride, it was cold in the morning I had some 5 layers on, slowly as the day progressed just with one layer was enough and a jacket. All the way I could see Stok Kangri, first rays of the sun falling on Stok Kangri, it was shining beautiful, took some pictures. Slowly steadily I was cycling and I was in good spirit with Snehil and Kishor. All the way Swapnil’s advice was echoing in my mind, ‘Don’t change your pace for anyone, go at your own pace’, Mahajan kaka’s advice for Kardungla was “Attempt as a summit climb, don’t wait for anyone”. We reached South Pullu by around 11:45AM and our turnaround time from K TOP was 3PM. From South Pullu, K TOP is 14Kms, so with 3Kms per hour I should be able to make it and I was feeling good. But heat was too much to take and I realized next 10Kms road condition was horrible. Considering all that, I became bit complacent and lazy. I decided to end my trip at South Pullu, content in my efforts. Snehil and Kishor were determined to reach the top so they went ahead. Determination and motivation was running low at my end. There were around 2-3 of them at South Pullu before we reached, they were having AMS. So I sat with them at a dhaba and I was famished, had hot Magie, double omelette and tea. Mugdha and Shradha we heard from support staff that they were having difficulty to climb and that they might return. Later bike support came and told us they are on the way. So we decided to wait for them, for a long time they did not turn up, so we thought they might not be coming and might have turned back. We were just out of dhaba and we saw Anurag, followed by Mugdha and Shradha. They took bit of rest at dhaba and ate some. They had decided not to continue to K TOP. So for some time we spoke with other tourist and army personal who had stopped at the dhaba. Then decided to start back, downhill ride was fun! I would say best downhill ever! Hand a wide grin all along. Loved every minute of it, both uphill and downhill. Reached Leh camp at around 2:30PM. Next day was our check out. If I had completed K Top, I was planning to dedicate it to Mahajan Kaka and my Step Mother for getting me cycling jersey which was very useful in this trip.
Day 15 – 18 (26th July – 29th July)
Some were going to Pangong Tso, some left to their home. My flight was on 29th July. We were around 7 of us, we decided to do Leh monastery. I had seen most of them and they all look the same for me. I had initially declined to not to join them, but then I had nothing else to do. Our plan to go to Tso Mariri was not working out. So joined in this group. Went to Stok Palace, Hemis monastery etc..., did few minutes of meditation at Hemis monastery and enjoyed the company. It was a relaxed sightseeing day with new found friends. I think it was a day well spent. Next two days just did nothing, eat sleep, repeat! Due to free wifi connectivity from hotels and restaurants spent time online sharing pictures with family and friends.
View of Himalaya from my Flight window
It was my first time flying out of Leh, Harshad was with me on this journey. We both wanted window seat and so we took different seats. On the way out got to see the famous Karakoram Range of Himalaya – The Great Earth Fold!
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