For years, we had read stories of expeditions to Nanda Devi — the mysterious mountain ringed by towering peaks and protected by its remoteness. We had once caught a distant glimpse of it during our Ghiya Vinayak trek after descending from Bansi Narayan, and ever since then, the dream of getting closer stayed with us.
At 7,816 metres, Nanda Devi is the highest mountain entirely within India. What makes it even more fascinating is the natural fortress surrounding it — a circle of twenty-one peaks rising above 6,000 metres. This barrier made the mountain incredibly difficult to access for early explorers.
Many legendary mountaineers attempted different approaches into the Nanda Devi sanctuary. The trail we followed was one of those historic routes once explored by pioneering expeditions. Dr.Tom Longstaff, among the earliest explorers of the region, travelled through these valleys, and we would eventually camp beneath Longstaff Col, under the mighty face of Nanda Devi East.
Nanda Devi itself is a twin-peaked mountain connected by a ridge nearly two kilometres long. Locally, the peaks are lovingly referred to as Nanda Devi (West) and Sunanda Devi (East), believed to be sisters watching over the region.
Any Himalayan trek demands both physical endurance and mental preparation. The terrain is remote, rugged, and unpredictable. Our journey would begin at around 10,000 feet and gradually climb to the Nanda Devi East Base Camp at nearly 14,000 feet.
Since April marks spring in the Himalayas, we expected mostly clear trails with limited snow. Our trek organisers, Wandering Boots Adventures, briefed us a week before departure about the terrain and possible snow conditions near the higher camps. There was a chance the last two campsites could still be covered in snow.
We reached Pithoragarh on 25th April. None of us had explored this side of Uttarakhand before, so everything felt fresh and exciting. That evening, a few of us stepped out for coffee at a nearby café under cloudy skies, assuming the weather would hold. We could not have been more wrong.
Within minutes, thunder echoed through the valley and heavy rain lashed the town, accompanied by massive hailstones. We waited anxiously under the shelter of roadside shops before finally sprinting back to our hotel once the rain eased.
The next morning, we drove towards Munsiyari through beautiful pine forests, stopping for a hearty breakfast along the way. The changing landscapes kept all of us glued to the windows.
From Munsiyari, we continued deeper into the Johar Valley. The Border Roads Organisation has carved a rough 4x4 track through the mountains for local access, and the drive itself felt like an adventure — narrow dirt roads hugging cliffs high above the roaring Gori Ganga River.
Because a section of the road towards Martoli had been damaged, we halted at Rilkot, around three kilometres before our starting village, and camped there for the night.
Day 1
We began trekking around 8 AM. The day started with a gradual climb along the rough 4x4 road leading towards Martoli. For long stretches, we simply walked on this mountain road, soaking in the vastness around us.
Closer to Martoli, we left the road and climbed steeply into the abandoned village. The silence of the old stone houses gave the place an almost haunting beauty.
From there, we descended beside the Martoli Gad, crossed a couple of bridges, and entered the Luwan Valley.
By the end of the day, we had covered nearly 13 kilometres in around eight exhausting hours and camped at Luwan Village.
Day 2
As usual, we started around 8 AM, mostly following the left bank of the Luwan River.
From this point onward, the river became our constant companion as we walked upstream towards the base camp.
The terrain became increasingly wild — dense juniper shrubs, blooming rhododendrons, slippery grass patches, scree slopes, and multiple landslide crossings.
Thankfully, we had a skilled team of mountain guides who helped us safely navigate these difficult sections.
We stopped beside the river for a long lunch break, enjoying packed meals with icy glacial water rushing nearby. By around 2 PM, we reached Patta campsite, a tiny patch of land barely large enough for a few tents.
The remoteness of the place made it feel even more special.
Day 3
At one point, we crossed the river to reach Narsan Patti campsite — a beautiful open meadow surrounded by towering mountains. We arrived surprisingly early, around noon, with plenty of time to relax.
Just as we settled in, snowflakes began falling softly from the sky.
Within no time, the campsite turned completely white.
Everyone rushed into the tents while snow continued outside. The rest of the afternoon passed with laughter, card games, and endless cups of hot black tea.
Day 4 – Reaching Nanda Devi East Base Camp
The morning greeted us with blue skies shining over freshly fallen snow. As the sun rose higher, the white trail slowly began to melt beneath our feet.
The route involved crossing giant boulders and rocky riverbeds before finally approaching the base camp.
Then came the moment.
As we rounded a bend, the valley suddenly opened into a vast river basin, and there stood Nanda Devi East — immense, silent, and impossibly beautiful — surrounded by a dramatic wall of Himalayan giants.
For a few moments, none of us spoke.
It was one of those rare experiences that words can never fully capture. Standing there, feeling tiny before these mountains, was deeply humbling.
This was our “here and now” moment.
We would spend the next two nights at this magical place.
At 14,000 feet, the open valley was bitterly cold despite the sunshine. We quickly layered ourselves in warm clothes and gathered inside the dining tent for warmth.
By noon, we had already reached camp and had the rest of the day simply to absorb the beauty around us.
Day 5 – A Day at Base Camp
Except for Jaspal, who ventured out exploring, most of us chose to do absolutely nothing — and it felt perfect.
A few brave souls even dipped into the freezing waters of the Luwan Gad flowing through the base camp.
The sun was bright, but the mountain air remained crisp and cold. For hours, we simply lay outside under the blue sky, surrounded by gigantic peaks, daydreaming in silence.
Our guide, Pawan, entertained us by balancing oddly shaped stones in impossible positions, defying gravity with incredible patience and skill. Soon enough, many of us were trying it ourselves.
By afternoon, as was becoming routine in the mountains, clouds rolled in and the weather turned grey again. We retreated to the dining tent, where card games and conversations carried us through the evening.
Day 6 – The Long Return
At 8 AM, before leaving base camp, we stood quietly for a moment, thanking the mountains for allowing us to witness their beauty.
Then we began our descent.
The plan was ambitious — instead of stopping at intermediate camps, we would trek directly to Luwan village, covering nearly 13–15 kilometres in a single day.
Descending felt easier on the lungs, but the terrain remained demanding. We crossed rivers, glacier patches, landslide zones, and endless boulder fields while moving steadily downstream.
The coordination and support from the team at Wandering Boots Adventures kept the group moving efficiently.
By around 5 PM, we finally reached Luwan village — exhausted, sore, but immensely satisfied.
As the trek neared its end, that familiar feeling slowly crept in: not wanting to leave the mountains behind.
Day 7 – Goodbye to the Mountains
The final morning was short and emotional.
Within three hours, we reached Martoli and paused one last time to look back at the mountains that had been our companions for the past week.
Just as we loaded our vehicles to return towards civilisation, rain began pouring again. Further down the road, a landslide had blocked our route, and we waited while a JCB cleared the debris.
It felt like the mountains wanted to delay our departure a little longer.
Eventually, we made our way back to Munsiyari, where hot showers, proper beds, and warm rooms welcomed us after days in the wilderness.
And just like that, the journey came to an end — carrying back tired legs, countless memories, and a piece of the Himalayas that would stay with us forever.
If you have 45 mins you could watch video of the trek : https://youtu.be/BskFyQp7T7Q?si=f8Z-j7G0TyEtckkf
Watch trek photo slideshow created by Mahesh: https://youtu.be/NlDYZxHPzJo?si=Q-uKhoWV8nS26kYU
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
